While I was writing this article a few weeks ago, I did not anticipate that Derna would soon capture headlines in the wake of a devastating flood-related tragedy. The news left me profoundly shaken, not only by the magnitude of the catastrophe but also because my last visit to Libya had left me with fond memories of Derna.

When I decided to co-organize and participate in a three-day work-related field visit to Derna in 2022, my mind was loaded with images of ISIS and other extremist groups that dominated the news on Derna for years. However, travelling from Benghazi, the Eastern capital of Libya, to Derna, I embarked on a journey of startling discovery and many profound lessons learned.

The six-hour road revealed a fascinating landscape of “Al Jabal Al Akhdar” (the Green Mountain, as translated into English), with its breathtaking mountains and forests. The visit was an eye-opener on the cultural heritage sites of Libya, leading me to the time-worn Roman and Greek ruins in Shahat, a historical town in northeastern Libya. The remnants demonstrate a rich history extending far beyond contemporary conflicts and the Hollywoodish “13 Hours: The Secret Soldiers of Benghazi” movie. 

Our road through mountainous sceneries was a historical lesson to us on Omar Al Mukhtar, the national hero of Libya, who resisted Italian colonialism and sought refuge in the mountains. Our companions from Libya insisted we visit the coastal and touristic town of Susah before arriving at our destination, and they were not wrong in their persistence. The unparalleled beauty of the road to Derna defied by itself the narrow narrative I had been exposed to. Days spent in Derna proved that it was an essence of Libya’s complexity.

Contradictory stories heard in Derna, along with my readings, demonstrate the multifaceted identity of this city. Known as the “Bride of Barqa” (Historical Eastern Libya), the Derwani community took pride in their community’s reputation, which had been established since the mid-twentieth century as a hub of education and cultural activity, setting it apart from neighbouring regions, thanks in part to institutions like the Darna Cultural House. The security measures taken by our organization did not permit us to witness this cultural character of the city, and we forcefully rejected the invitation of our Derwani friends to attend a play at night. 

When we reached 'Souk Al Zalam,' an ancient and historically significant marketplace for gold trading in Derna, it was evident how the extremist takfiri groups threatened the city’s cultural identity. The souk, now in ruins, witnessed the emergence of takfiri groups in the 1970s and the ominous rise of ISIS in the city in 2014. Even the Salah al-Din al-Ayyubi Mosque, near the souk, was not exempt from the burdensome guest presence in Derna. Reading the United Nations Development Programme (UNDP) signage indicating a reconstruction project for the souk was a glimpse of hope and exciting news in the destruction scenery. 

The renowned scenic mountains and forests in Derna were exploited by takfiri groups, some pledging allegiance to ISIS. Enjoying the hospitality of our Dernawis friends next to the magical mountains and waterfall did not distract me from listening to their stories on how the rugged mountains were a haven and training camps for extremist groups repeatedly for more than four decades. History teaches us that mountains can be a blessing for a nation or a curse.

The challenging times and experiences borne by the people of Derna following the 2011 revolution, coupled with the rise of Islamist extremist groups in the city, may have overshadowed the hardships experienced by their parents during the Gaddafi regime. The city was known for its opposition to the Gaddafi regime, which made it marginalized, resulting in deteriorating economic and social conditions. 

The situation got worse when the regime launched a war against Sufism, and this coincided with the emergence of what is known as the “Awakening or Al Sahwa” that was spreading Wahhabi ideology, which found in the rebellious city a fertile environment for Islamist takfiris. Subsequently, the enlightened city celebrated for its cultural and artistic heritage came under scrutiny for potential terrorist activity and slowly transformed into a hub for recruiting combatants.

As Derna prepared for the upcoming inaugural municipal elections, a glimmer of hope flickered on the horizon. However, this hope was swiftly overshadowed by the catastrophic event that impacted the fate and future of this region. Despite Derna's resilience in the face of numerous adversities, the recent devastating flood stands out as a moment of unparalleled tragedy for its residents—a moment that will likely be imprinted in the collective memory of Denarians for decades, if not centuries, to come.

The current state of the road from Benghazi to Derna, marred by disrepair and the aftermath of recent tragedies, paints a stark picture. Yet, amidst this landscape, a profound lesson emerges from Derna’s history: pain, though seemingly inherent, is continuously overshadowed by the indomitable spirit of its people. This resilience forms a persistent element in Derna's narrative with each challenge faced.

Looking ahead, there's a collective hope that resonates. With the united efforts of Libyans, both in spirit and action, the path to Derna can be revitalized hopefully for future visits in non-tragic moments.

The views expressed in this article are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect those of Tamooda or any other organization.